You would be forgiven for having a sense of deja vu with this quilt – it’s the third hourglass block I’ve done since the summer arising from an amazing bumper crop of blocks provided by members of the Siblings Together Bee 2. Continue reading
I don’t buy many sewing books frankly because there is just so much material out there on the internet that I don’t need the extra inspiration. It’s also because I usually want to make one specific item that’s caught my fancy and I will happily buy the PDF pattern from the designer. But I made an exception for Aneela Hoey’s Stitched Sewing Organisers.
This quilt is destined for our front room, supposedly a lounge for my teens to entertain their friends. It has everything teens expect a tv, games station and computer but for some reason they prefer the family lounge. In an effort to make it more homely I’m hoping this quilt will do the trick.
My lovely mum who just turned 90 was up with us and offered to do some sewing. I don’t think she is any more enamoured with my Pfaff than she was when she sewed with it on her summer visit. Continue reading
Yes I thought I would confess straightaway. Maybe its my prostestant work ethic but on one hand I feel I have to defend myself for my profligacy. But on the other hand I think well its my money and no one will starve because of this purchase. And in the scheme of things paying £28 for a metre of fabric is hardly the stuff of banking crises. But for me it seems a lot. But of course its for the lovely Kirstine in Wild Rose from Outback Wife by Australian Gertrude Made. It has a quaint backstory that each fabric line is named after a real life ‘outback wife’ in rural Australia. Continue reading
I mentioned in my blog post a week or so back that I had tackled my sewing room, well more specifically my WIP drawer and made a batch of see through project bags – 19 no less. I’m afraid there are still more drawers to sort and the bookcase, but a start is a start. One thing that struck me when I was making my production line of WIP bags was how disorganised my sewing process was as well as storage. Sewing was fraught with trying to find things all the time. Essential tools like rotary cutters, markers, scissors etc would get caught up in fabric and the general mess so I seemed to spend as much time looking for things, than actually sewing. Then there were the heaps of scraps that were generated when cutting, some for scraps, some for the cushions for the cat home – I needed a better process.
When I’m sewing, the tray at the front of my bionic gear bag serves to coral things like seam rippers, pin cushion etc and I try hard to make sure I put everything back in the tray so it’s easy to find.
I needed the same for when I’m cutting and assembling. This, in the absence of a big enough standing height cutting bench (in my dreams…), is done on the floor. For big cutting jobs I use the island unit in the kitchen but for the odd pieces for blocks, assembling things etc it’s down on the floor. I struck upon the idea of fabric trays. A quick google search and it was a toss up between Aneela Hoey’s zip up tray, her stacking trays or the free pattern byAnna Graham Noodlehead Robert Kaufmann. I settled on the latter.
These were fun and quick to make. It’s a very clever design and I presume given that the pattern piece refers to Kaufmann’s Essex line, its a showcase for that product. This is a linen cotton mix so a lovely texture and with some heft to it. So for the first couple I stuck with linen mixes including the Essex Yarn Dyed range and this gorgeous screen print on that fabric from Carolyn Friedlander’s Euclids range.
I’d found a very helpful post on making these by Sophie of Luna Loves Quilts. I enjoy her blog, she has a lovely fresh take on quilting and she writes it in both French and English….. bilingualism isn’t going to be happening any time soon on this blog I’m afraid given that I barely scraped through my French ‘O’ level much to the surprise of my French teacher and me! Sophie gave some excellent tips on changing up the construction which worked very well. I don’t want to steal her thunder and repeat them here so suffice to say the only change I didn’t do was make bias binding. She’s right it would be easier with those curved corners but I hate taking a lovely half yard of material then slicing it in two on the diagonal then having two awkward pieces left.
I made a number of sizes. The one in the pattern is on the small side made from a pattern piece 8.5” by 11”. I increased those sizes by 10%, rounded down to the nearest 1/4”, to get a set of three stacking trays.
Using Essex yarn dyed fabric and other linen mixes in my stash worked very well. Couldn’t decide whether it was better to put the stiff fusible interfacing on the exterior or interior piece. Pluses and minuses to both.
I then tried with quilting cotton…. not so successful.
Fusing this onto the stiff interfacing made it very wrinkly when folded up as the inside of the tray, it was better as an exterior but not much. I presume the much greater wrinkliness (is that a word?) is because the fabric is a tighter weave than the linen mix even more so as this is an AGF fabric. But I had a play and came up with the fact that if you add a fusible wadding to both pieces of fabric in addition to the stiff interfacing then it seems to work but only if the stiff interfacing is on the exterior piece. This tray features Helen Steele’s lovely new screen print designs, as I know her in real life I’ve left her name on there.
The riveted leather pieces have absolutely no purpose other than being decorative. I’ve been putting off learning how to do rivets despite the fact that I think they look very slick and make a totebag look professional and well finished. I just knew it wouldn’t be easy. And having bought leather, a hole punch and a variety of rivets this very much proved to be the case! I had a success rate of around one rivet per 4! It looks very simple on YouTube videos and I think the knack is doing it in one hammer blow. I had to order more rivets as I quickly worked through the relatively small number sent with the sample pack. But aside from gnashing teeth when they didn’t work, when they did they looked good.
And have these trays helped with organisation? Well let’s put it this way as I made successive trays I used the finished ones to help me be more organised with the latest trays and a lot less things got lost.
They will also make great gifts so at watch out family and friends…..
So for future reference
1. In terms of sizes an increase of 10% but then down to the nearest 1/4” makes them stack nicely.
2. With linen mix fabric I found the stiff interfacing can go on either the exterior or interior pieces.
3. With quilting cotton the exterior needs to firstly have a low loft fusible wadding like Pellon 430 fused on to it and then the stiff interfacing. The interior also benefits from a layer of low loft fusible wadding.
Linking up with Lorna of Sew Fresh Quilts
This might be my favourite Siblings Together quilt I’ve made yet. Mindyou I always say that! Many of you will know that Siblings Together is a charity that brings together siblings separated in the UK care system. The many events they run include camps and the highlight is being gifted a quilt, often the first handmade item the children have ever received.
We have been having a recruitment drive and there are now 4 Bees up and running full of keen and generous quilters who make blocks and some of whom then take them and make them into quilts. We need a 100 quilts a year…This beauty is the work of Bee 2 although many of the new volunteers who went on to form the new Bee 4 also made blocks. Altogether I reckon there are over 20 contributors to this quilt. There was even a block making ‘factory’ down at Hever quilt show where Heather Hasthorpe and Jackie Norris were manning the Modern Quilt Group section of the Quilters Guild and brought with them a vintage sewing machine and were sewing blocks. Always a good ruse I think to draw people in because who can resist seeing what someone else is making!
I had seen the Lake Cabin Quilt pattern on Rachel’s Stitched in Color blog in the Summer and thought it would make a good charity quilt using up blue and green strings. With Rachel’s kind permission I shared the quarter log cabin design with Bee members but of course the tricky bit with this pattern is the sashing and the fact it is set on point. But of course that’s what makes it different and attractive. I hadn’t quite appreciated how much extra work there would be taking into account those two features but it was well worth it.
I went with a dark greeny blue solid having done an IG vote. Democracy ruled that a blue background was required but the initial choice was I agree a bit loud. So I toned it down from the girl guide blue of the bottom of the picture to Mineral, a Free Spirit solid, which is this lovely greeny blue.
When I’m sewing something big I tend to do that in the kitchen and when I’m sewing at the weekend the children moan slightly less than if I’m tucked away in the sewing room. I couldn’t work out why every time I returned to the sewing machine my thread had become unthreaded. Dreadful mother that I am I began to suspect the children of playing a joke until I caught the culprit red handed! Felix loves playing with a full spool as he can flick it up and chase after it so a proffered empty spool was ignored.
Skye played her part in delaying progress by curling up and going to sleep on the quilt mid quilting. Any cat lovers out there, I’m ashamed to say she was pushed off and offered another quilt but that wasn’t good enough! She hopped straight back on…
There will be more quarter log cabins in my future as I had a bumper crop sent by Bee members. I pulled out all the plain masculine blocks and will make up another quilt for an older teen. The rest went on the back.
One blogger, Rachel of Stitched in Color I think, mentioned she’d reviewed her annual plan recently to see how she was doing against what she had set herself for 2017. It made me recall I’d done some targets for 2017 and thought I’d amuse myself and review mine knowing full well there’d be some New Year enthusiasm in there. Yes some targets have been met, but others have fallen dramatically by the wayside. One such was to be more organised both in my sewing room and sewing process. This has been a major fail.
My sewing room had become an absolute mess, to the point of disorganisation and chaos. I can live wth mess provided there is some method to the madness. Now when I say chaos I am not talking teenage boy room disaster zone of which sadly I have a great deal of experience but just dust, bits and pieces on the floor and heaps and heaps of random stuff.
So what to do. It needed more than just a tidy and clean, it needed a rethink.
In theory I’m lucky with storage. I have a lovely chest of drawers, another less lovely but perfectly functioning set of drawers and a large book case. All of course absolutely rammed full. Some sort of vague organisation at the heart of it but generally a mess.
The main culprit was the innocent Hobbycraft tote. The sun may be shining down on it but it is evil…..
I use these to hold projects either WIPs or material bought for a specific project in mind. They are great in the sense they are cheap, they squash down and are sizeable enough for even the largest project but they look ugly but worst of all when you are searching you have to open each bag and when they are squashed with loads of other identical bags that’s easier said than done. I did experiment with a clear vinyl window but they just looked tatty as you can see in the picture below
As the drawer was full these bags were everywhere, hanging behind the door, dumped on the bed and floor, snooked into corners. In fact rather worrying all the tricks of the trade my children use to hide mess.
Then I remembered my foray into Maria Kondo’s book The Life Changing Magic of Tidying. I had throughly embraced this in a major sort through of my clothes and bedroom storage ahead of a refurbed bedroom last year. I know her style is not for everyone ie the concept of only holding onto things that give you joy but the ruthless approach worked for me as did storing things vertically which seemed to create so much more space.
So to apply that to these project bags as they most certainly did not give me joy but the contents did. I just needed better project bags. I needed to be able to see into them, be different sizes and crucially they needed to be able to stack upright. I knew there were vinyl project bags out there. I couldn’t find any patterns for what I had in mind. I could find flat project bags and pouch types but not cube see-through bags.
So to do my own….
I started with this version. I did a straight copy of a see through bag that held toiletries I use for air travel. Oh what a disaster and so difficult to get that binding on. Ugly ugly….
Rethink needed so went for prototype 2…. a box construction with zip on top…… better…
It then dawned on me if I wanted to stack them vertically then having a see through side wasn’t very clever so why not make the same construction but put the vinyl on top so to prototype 3.
Functional but the zipper sewn directly to the vinyl wasn’t attractive and needed fabric strips either side so to prototype 4.
Success!! This was just what I was after….. so a cottage industry was born and I churned these out. They were surprisingly quick to make once you got into a rhythm and what a difference so much more space efficient let alone convenient.
and look at that drawer now….
If you fancy making your own I’ve done a tutorial
This project bag is a simple construction but I should make it clear at the outset that it is unlined and floppy which works for me in that there is less bulk for storage. If you want a lined box pouch with more structure then another pattern is probably the answer.
As a see through bag I used vinyl. If you’ve not sewn with vinyl before here are just a few tips.
- flatten the vinyl by a gently pressing under a piece of fabric (can’t empahsise that enough) and then let it cool for a couple of minutes under the fabric overlay so its nice and flat
- do a few practice pieces on scraps just to see how your machine/machine foot behaves. I have a Pfaff with a built in walking foot and although I used a teflon foot it didn’t make any difference. I found it relatively easy to sew through, less easy to position hence….
- use glue if you find it too slippy to use
- Try and sew with fabric side down. If you can’t do that then lift the fabric/vinyl up so that the only sticky bit is under the needle and being pulled along by the feeddogs
For a finished project bag size bag 9” length, 3 1/2” deep and 7” then the fabric requirements are listed below. This is a medium size bag but will hold a fair amount. The one I’m making in the tutorial holds pieced blocks and spare fabric for a lap sized quilt but not the backing. For that you need the largest size. Dimensions for a large and small size bag are given below. But the beauty of this design is you can make them any size to fit your storage. The height of my drawers is 7” so that’s why mine are that height. All seams 1/4″.
you will need
1 x 11” by 6” clear vinyl (large size 14″ by 7″, small size 8″ by 5″)
2 x 10” by 7” large side panels (large size 13″ by 7″, small size 7″ by 7″)
2 x 4” by 7” narrow side panels (large size 4.5″ by 7″, small size 3.5″ by 7″)
2 x 1.75” by 11” strips (large size 1.75″ by 14″ strips, small size 8″ strips)
1 x 10” by 4” bottom panel (large size 13″ by 4.5″, small size 7″ by 3.5″)
1 x 12” zip (large size 14″, small size 8″)
Non permanent fabric marker pen
Prepare the strips and zip
1. Prepare the strips by folding and ironing in half lengthwise. Starch for crispness. Then fold the long sides to meet at fold line. Finally fold in half to make a strip, iron and glue it to hold it together.
2. Glue the vinyl piece to right side of zip but not too close to zip itself.
3. Glue one of the strips onto the vinyl/zip unit so it sits on top of the vinyl close to the zip teeth and then sew down both sides of the fabric strip using a zipper foot (or not I never bother!). It should look like the picture under 4. below
4. Cut the vinyl by placing the zip teeth on a line on your cutting mat and cut 2” from the zip teeth
5. With the remaining strip of vinyl repeat on the other side of the zip and then sew down the fabric strip and trim as above.
6. Move the zip pull to midway on the zip and then trim the zip to 10”.
7. Sew across the ends on the zip to ensure the zip pull doesn’t get pulled off the zip. I’ve done this so many times 😢. You now have the zip unit.
Sew side panels onto zip unit
8. First mark all the pieces 1/4” in on all corners of side panels and the bottom. The gauge below is a lie , I just eyeballed it and it was fine !
9. Sew the long side panels rightsides together to the zip unit. On the sewing machine put the fabric on the bottom, you will easily be able to see the 1/4” marks through the vinyl and ONLY sew between your 1/4” marks.
Repeat on the other long side panel.
10. Now sew the shorter side panels by placing them rightsides together with the short side of the zip unit again fabric side down and only sewing between the marks. It should like this when you’ve sewn it.
11. and when all panel sides have been sewn on the rightside should look like this.
12. Now turn it over so the underside of the zip unit is showing and then trim the vinyl from the corners to reduce bulk. .
13. Next we need to sew the side seams rightsides together again sewing between the 1/4″ marks. Undo the zip (important!) and now by pinching the corner of the zip unit, position the two sides rightsides together and sew down to the bottom of the bag but only up to the 1/4″ mark and repeat on all 4 sides.
13. The bottom of a side seam should look like this.
14. Place the bottom piece right sides together on the bottom seams, matching the 1/4” marks and sew from 1/4″ mark around the bottom swivelling at each corner by leaving the needle down. Make sure that the rest of the bag is tucked away while you are sewing.
14. Turn it inside out and press the fabric seams. Finger press the seams with the vinyl and finish off the inside seams if you like a neat finish.
Now fill with your project…
Do let me know if you try this and if there are any glitches in the instructions or a better way.
Linking up with Crazy Mom Quilts
A brief catch up on what I’d hoped to achieve over Q3.
Not too bad…. 5 out of 6. In summary the finished projects looked like this…
1. 2. Fail but I’ve gone off this project for the moment.
3. 4. 5.
Now to the next Quarter. Here’s the usual montage….
So in order…
1. These are Bee blocks from Bee 2. These need sashing and then putting on point. Quite a bit of work is involved but I want this done by year end so it’s ready for me to take to the Threadhouse Retreat so I can give this Siblings Together quilt to Nicky who collects them all in.
2. I’ve purchased this book with the intention of making some of the sewing organisers in there. Not sure this really counts as a proper FAL item but as something I’d like to finish this quarter then it counts fo me
3. Another Siblings Together quilt, the first block for the newly formed Bee 4. Again I want this ready to take to Nicky.
4. Hopefully this beautiful Soulful fabric by Maureen Cracknell quilt for the lounge will get finished. Cold weather, well what classifies for cold weather in mild temperate U.K., is coming and this will be lovely to snuggle up with!! I’ve already bought a flannel backing, cream not the disastrous deep red flannel used on another quilt here
5. These will hopefully become see through project bags to contain my WIPs. This one is started but I have a lot of WIPs so need a lot of bags….
6. Another hourglass quilt for ST -see the pattern here so I can hand it over in the New Year
7. A beautiful ombré screen print from Karen Lewis to be made into something but can I cut into it ?
I’m cautiously optimistic of at least a 50% success rate……but don’t hold me to it.
We had a great response to the recent appeal for new Bee members, not only sufficient to bolster Bees 1, 2 and 3 but enough to start another Bee. This is very exciting and it’s been wonderful to see everyone’s enthusiasm and so rather than wait until the end of the month to post this I thought I’d get this up a couple of days earlier. You’ve still got to the end of October to send them to me but for those who want to crack on then here it is.
I’m acting as coordinator for this group and whilst everyone settles in I thought I’d kick it off and set the first month’s blocks. So here goes…. something reasonably straightforward for people to cut their teeth. The bow tie block… which when you put four of the blocks below together make the blocks above in the top picture
I try to be reasonably prescriptive not to tie you down (oops pun there!) but stop the agonising – what colour did she want, is this what she meant, how low a volume does she want etc etc!! But equally I don’t want to be so prescriptive that no one has that colour of fabric in their stash. For this block I would like quite a strong contrast between the background and foreground colours so saturated or strong colour please but any colour would be perfect. It doesn’t have to be the same print in each block but they do need to be from the same colour family and the same sort of strong tone like my yellow and pink blocks. They’ve each got a couple of different prints but read the same tone of colour. With the background fabric I’d like white or very light grey again the lighter the better so the contrast is good. The background fabrics can be scrappy too as in my blocks above or all the same. Hopefully my example blocks give you an idea of what I’m after.
Each block needs four bow ties blocks. I’d ideally like 2 large blocks so that is 8 bow tie blocks. When you’ve sewn up the four bow ties blocks into one block can you please trim the blocks to 12.5″- these are the unfinished size and when I sew them together to make a quilt top they will be a 12″ finished
So how to make them. I will show you how I made mine but as we have many experienced and talented quilters in this bee do feel free to make them your way as long as the final block is made up of 4 bow tow blocks and equals 12.5″. As I’ve said this is the unfinished size and I used a scant 1/4″ as I normally do for all blocks as I often need wriggle room when trimming
Cutting for 4 bow tie blocks to make 1 larger block
From background fabric cut
8 x 3.5″ squares
From coloured/patterned fabric cut
8 x 3.5″ squares
8 x 1.75″ squares
Taking a 3.5″ background square place a 1.75″ square right sides together on the corner and then sew across the corner – you can just make out the stitch line in the photo below. You can if you wish draw a line on the back of the small squares but perfect accuracy is not the issue here it’s more about effect and I just eyeballed it. But then again imperfection comes very naturally to me!!
then cut off the corner
and iron back the corner so it’s now a 3.5″ square, trimming if necessary
Now lay out your blocks and sew together to make a bow tie block and then make 4.
By putting 4 of these bow tie units you get the larger block as shown below
Now please repeat the process to make a second large block. Any questions please don’t hesitate to call me or email me.
I try but don’t always succeed to get these quilts finished within 4 months. So hopefully if you can get them to me by the end of the month and there aren’t too many extra to make then we should have a finish in January. I will make sure you see it.
Don’t hesitate to shout up if it doesn’t sent make sense or the maths gremlins have crept in!
There’s is nothing I like more than to make something I need and will be in constant use. Being able to make it to a design I like, a design that will be functional for me and then with the fabric of my choice is one of the joys of creating. I imagine dressmakers feel exactly the same.
I do a fair bit of hand sewing. Nothing like as much as many sewists but I’ve a long term Glitter project on the go and there’s always someone wanting badges sewn on or labels etc. So in response to this last year I made myself another bionic gear bag to hold hand sewing stuff.
This is a fab design and I’ve made a number blogged if you’re interested here. I love the zips, the fold out tray and it’s a good size but as a hand sewing caddy that’s on display (because it’s used so much) it’s blue which doesn’t go in our living spaces and floppy! It’s deliberately floppy as it’s really a travel bag so it can be crushed down in bags etc and take as little room as possible. To this end it is a boon on flights where much to the horror of my children I sew.
So I was on the look out for a hand sewing bag/caddy that was smart enough to have on display but crucially functional. And I found it in the Project Caddy of Aneela Hoey. This lady is a very talented designer both of fabric and bags/pouches. This is the first of hers I have used and it certainly won’t be the last. The instructions were clear and comprehensive. Perhaps choosing to do it at the weekend and in the kitchen so I could use the island unit for cutting out wasn’t the best idea because of all the disruptions from teens wanting feeding, lifts, more feeding, more lifts etc. It’s a pattern that needs careful thinking through not least because I was using a rather unusual, for me, fabric.
I’d seen this fabric in blog land and immediately had to have some. It took some tracking down but when it arrived I discovered it was rather more yellow than I had anticipated having been drawn by the rich reds and oranges. Nonetheless it needed to be used and I thought given this project might not be particularly successful it was worth a try. But of course it meant cutting the pieces to make the most of this large scale pattern and no bird or butterfly got cruelly cut.
As a consequence the cutting took hours….. This was in part because of the frequent interruptions as mentioned above but also many of the pieces for this had to be cut in fabric and then again in various types of interfacing. In fact if you do the sturdiest version of this bag then you’re using four different types of interfacing. I can’t speak highly enough of my local quilt shop The Cotton Patch who went through with me the pattern and from which I could source at least three of the interfaces needed. The other one I got from Sew Hot with their usual lightening service.
The actual sewing was relatively quick up to getting the base done but the lid was more of a trial. If I do this pattern again I must hand baste more to check neatness etc particularly around the top. But that aside, in the main, the combination of careful cutting and marking definitely paid off.
I am really pleased with it. And it’s vast. I’ve covered a couple of boxes in the fabric to make containers. And enjoyed myself putting everything away.
Sky was fascinated by it as you can see and was constantly head-butting it hence the cat hairs. If I were doing it again I’d make the side lining seam at least an inch not 1/2” as the lining is a bit puffy and ill fitting. But other than that I would make it just as the pattern suggests.
I use this blog as a ready reference for me. So if there are tips along the way or specific issues then I try to record them so I’m not left scratching my head knowing that I once had worked this out but for the life of me have forgotten! So as this was an interfacing dominated project which introduced me to three new to me interfacings I thought I’d list out what I’ve learned and then use it for reference.
This is particularly so as interfacing has been quite a mystery to me given how many types of interfacing there are and yet they all look vaguely similar, so it’s very confusing. What further adds to the confusion is that you can combine different types of interfacing so for example in this pattern you are required to use up to 3 different types of interfacing on one piece of fabric. But in reality my most successful finishes have often been because of using a combination of interfacing on one fabric piece. So based on some experience of using a number of different types of interfacing in various bags and pouches with varying degrees of success I have listed what I’ve found albeit I’m far from expert and do please share any interfacing experiences or favourites you have.
Thick interfacing for items that typically need to stand up
Annie’s Soft and Stable. This is thick, foam covered fusible interfacing. It has a spongy feel to it. It worked very well with Anna Graham’s Noodle-head’s Divided basket
Peltex 71F. This was new to me but recommended for the Project Caddy. It’s fusible and firm but can be bent and springs back. Useful when you need to turn the bag inside out to pull the lining through. It’s rough though so needs at least a couple of fabrics covering it to feel nice. It gives a more rigid structure than Soft and Stable.
TIM Ted – this was also recommended for Project Caddy. It’s very firm, firmer than Peltex and doesn’t spring back easily. It is sew in type interfacing. This was slotted into the caddy between the exterior and interior lining. Perfect for something that needs to stand upright
Vilene or their new name Visilene (why bother changing their name?) H630. This is quite a thin fusible wadding and on its own it’s rather insubstantial I find . Being fusible is helpful although it doesn’t fuse well but maybe mine is old. With Project Caddy I used it to soften and smooth the exterior piece which definitely gave it a nicer finish.
Vilene H640. Thicker and with more substance this gives more heft than the H630. I like it for larger bags and totes. For larger totes I nearly always use upholstery fabric. It’s often cheaper and sturdier or I will use a linen type quilting cotton like that used here.
Another thicker fusible wadding is Pellon 987F. This gave a nice quality feel and structure to the Fold Up Sewing Folio
Lighter weight interfacing.
I have a few of these which I’ve used to basically make the fabric stiffer and less floppy. This is a good complement I’ve found to the fusible waddings above.
Pellon Craft Fuse. This was new to me. It’s fusible and fuses well unlike the Vilene H630 above. But it has a tendency to ruck and it’s very difficult to remove once that’s happened. You can see an example of that here.
Vilene S320 is is similar to craft fuse in all respects in terms of function. Fuses well but can ruck. I have found this is a good combination with Vilene H640 for bags to give them structure and a professional look.
SF101 This also helps give cotton weight quilting fabric a much firmer feel. This was recommended by Aneela for the caddy. It’s woven whereas the other two listed are more like paper. I’ve tried to capture the difference in the picture below, the SF101 is under the scissors. It’s fuses well and didn’t ruck. In fact this may be a new favourite of this type for that fact alone. I would have used just this interfacing for the caddy but I ran out and had to switch to craft fuse for a couple of pieces.
I don’t think I’ve cracked it when it comes to interfacing and I will keep trying others. But what I have done is put each in separated plastic bags all labeled as they still look very similar.
Of course now there is no excuse but to crack on with those glitter block pieces in the caddy!